A Wine-Tasting Adventure through the Gorges of the Lower Salmon River

A Wine-Tasting Adventure through the Gorges of the Lower Salmon River By Miranda Franco from winereviewonline.com

Several years ago, I stumbled upon an article in Food & Wine magazine by the esteemed Ray Isle titled "How to Pair Wine with Whitewater Rafting."  The piece vividly described a Wine & Food on the River adventure, where the thrill of navigating rapids by day was perfectly balanced with evenings spent in serene shoreside camps, indulging in gourmet meals and fine wines.  As an enthusiast of both the outdoors and wine, I was captivated by the idea.  Inspired, I immediately booked a trip for my husband and me with the featured outfitter, the Minam Store.

However, this was 2020, and the pandemic had other plans, forcing us to delay our adventure.  Fast forward to a few weeks ago, we finally embarked on the journey.  Our trip began with a flight into Walla Walla, WA, followed by a scenic drive to Clarkston, Washington.  The drive itself was a journey through Southeastern Washington’s Palouse, transitioning from Walla Walla's picturesque vineyards and vibrant arts scene to the expansive wheat-colored plains and rolling green hills.  The next morning, we met up with the team from the Minam Store and the rest of our group, to begin our four day guided rafting trip with a drive to Cottonwood, Idaho.

As we neared Idaho, the gateway to the Lower Salmon River, the landscape shifts subtly.  The hills become steeper, and the Lower Salmon River’s vast expanse hinted at the journey that lied ahead.  The Lower Salmon River, one of the longest undammed rivers in the United States, carries a rich history and is steeped in natural beauty.  It has been a lifeline for Indigenous peoples for thousands of years, providing a bountiful source of food and a vital transportation route.  The river was named by early fur traders, and its canyons have witnessed the passage of time, from the Nez Perce tribes to the intrepid explorers and settlers of the West.

The Lower Salmon River's waters are not only historical but also renowned for offering some of the best white-water rafting in the country.  This stretch of the river is characterized by rapids interspersed with calm stretches, creating an ideal balance for those seeking both excitement and relaxation.  The river meanders through a canyon of basalt cliffs, revealing a landscape sculpted by volcanic activity and the erosive forces of water over millennia.  Here, the days are free from the interruptions of cell service, filled instead with the soothing sounds of the river's flow and the distant calls of birds.

While on the water, Grant Richie, owner of Minam Store and the outfitter responsible for curating the trip, enriched our journey with historical tidbits from his dory (a small, shallow-draft boat).  As the group navigated the river, he pointed out fascinating remnants of the past, such as rock piles along the banks where Chinese miners once sorted rocks in search of gold around 1860.

Meanwhile, on the rafts, lively squirt gun water fights erupted, filling the air with laughter and joy.  The friendly competition led to endless fun as we splashed and played in the warm waters.  On another boat, Dennis, a seasoned veteran of the river, captivated everyone with tales of his adventures in Alaska, adding a touch of wilderness lore to the journey.

Each evening, we camped on the river’s sandy beaches, a tranquil setting under the expansive Idaho sky.  Here, our expert guides Hannah Hauter, Luis Santana and Cole Hauter, prepared a menu created by legendary Walla Walla chef Andrae Bopp.  The multicourse river meals were as memorable as the day’s adventures.  We feasted on heavenly dishes that seemed impossible to craft riverside.  Some highlights included muffuletta sandwiches, perfectly prepared shrimp and grits, handmade biscuits and gravy, tuna poke in endive, and a grilled watermelon salad with pepitas and charred feta.  On our last night the culinary experience culminated with s'mores made with handmade graham crackers, Valrhona chocolate, and marshmallows toasted to perfection using an industrial blow torch.

The culinary journey was enhanced by the exceptional wines from Dunham Cellars, a best-of-class Walla Walla winery.  Their offerings brought a touch of refinement to our riverside meals.  Even better, we were joined on the trip by the winemaker, Rob Campisi, and general manager, John Blair, whose presence deepened the camaraderie among our outstanding group.

Each evening, as the sun set, the skies above the Lower Salmon River would come alive with stars, unblemished by the haze of city lights.  The experience was made even more perfect with a glass of Dunham Cellars wine in hand.  From the drive through the amber plains to the final night under the stars, this rafting adventure offered a perfect blend of thrill and tranquility, enriched by the exquisite cuisine and wine.  

We wrapped up our trip in the Walla Walla Valley, a wine region nestled just west of the Blue Mountains and east of where the Columbia and Snake Rivers meet.  Known for its compelling wines, amazing restaurants, and laid-back atmosphere, the area provided the perfect setting for the final leg of our trip.  

We had the pleasure of exploring several standout wineries with our friend Tom Olson, who owns the top-notch touring company Wine Country 2 Go.  Our visits included Grosgrain, where we savored rare offerings like the Rosso—a blend of Aglianico and Nebbiolo; Brook & Bull, celebrated for its delicious Malbecs; Rasa Vineyards, famous for its breathtaking Syrahs; and Rotie Cellars, which wowed us with their knockout Grenache.  It was the ideal conclusion to an incredible week in the Pacific Northwest.

Bottles Enjoyed from Dunham Cellars on the River:

2021 Trutina ($32):  Derived from the Latin word for "balance," the 2021 Trutina is a masterful blend of 64% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc.  On the nose, it reveals a symphony of lush blackberry, blackcurrant, purple plum, and violet, with a subtle hint of cedar.  The palate is rich and medium-full, with seamlessly integrated tannins.  There’s a captivating interplay between the deeply concentrated fruit flavors and delicate barrel spice notes, creating a harmonious tasting experience.  93

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon XXVI ($50):  Powerful and structured, with deep black-cherry and blackberry flavors and a hint of wild herbs, lead to a richly textured, full-bodied wine that is wonderfully balanced by dusty tannin and old-world inspired acidity.  It deserves a big steak (or Minam’s store beef tenderloin with chimichurri).  94

2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Five Miles East Kenny Hill Vineyard Estate ($85):  Hailing from the Kenny Hill Vineyard, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon shows remarkable structure and richness.  The nose offers an enticing perfumed bouquet of purple flowers, red and black currants, black cherry, and plum before melding into mocha and cigar wrapper.  The palate impresses with layers of the forest fruit and a savory core, culminating in a remarkable finish.  This wine is truly a standout.  95

2021 Syrah Columbia Valley ($40):  Intensely savory and rich with dark fruit at the same time, this could last for a few years in a cellar, but it's hard to resist right now.  Think wild raspberries, ripe purple plum, wild sage and herbs in a delectably tongue-coating way.  93

2023 Sauvignon Blanc ($22):  The acidity is this Sauvignon Blanc is citrusy and lively, and yet there is some lushness to the texture.  Aromas and flavors of white grapefruit, lime zest, Meyer lemon, citrus rind and wet stones extend through the long finish.  93

2023 Rosé ($22):  This Rosé of Cabernet Franc offers aromas of wild strawberries, ruby red grapefruit, cantaloupe, pink peppercorn, and a touch of sea salt on the palate, with matching flavors and a super crisp, mineral driven finish.  It’s extremely refreshing and promises to be exceptionally versatile with food.  92

 

Source: https://www.winereviewonline.com/Miranda_Franco_Wine_on_Lower_Salmon_River.cfm